Cut – 45 Park Lane

Mimi ON Dec 20, 2011 AT 9:30 am

Cut, 45 Park Lane

Cut, 45 Park Lane

by John Gregory-Smith

Steak is a very fashionable thing right now. Hawksmoor set the bar extremely high and we have a few new comers, including 34 and Cut, at 45 Park Lane, which is renowned American chef Wolfgang Puck’s European debut. The restaurant is on the ground floor of the hotel – it’s very “Park Lane” with over the top opulence, mirrors galore and lots of brown leather.

I could talk about the beautifully presented farmers market vegetable salad (£12) or the mouth watering Dorset crab and lobster cocktail (£19) we had for our starters; or the soft polenta with parmesan (£6.50), which was quite possibly the best polenta I have ever eaten, until a few delicate shavings of fresh truffle graced it’s presence and took it somewhere more heavenly; but this place was all about the steak and quite frankly they were the best I have eaten in my life.

The steaks were very expensive, ranging from £30 for a 6oz fillet mignon, from Casterbridge in Devon, to £72 for a 6oz “New york” steak, wagu/black angus from Darling Downs Australia. Each steak was cooked to utter perfection, seasoned within a inch of its life and served simply on a plate with a section of mustards and sauce of choice. The steaks were grilled over hard wood and charcoal and then finished under a 650 degree broiler, which gave the impeccably seasoned meat an intense smokey flavour, perfectly even crust and succulent centre.

I had the 14oz rib eye steak (£44), aged for 35 days from Creekstone Farm in Arkansas City and my dinning companion went for the more waist-friendly 6oz fillet mignon (£30). My steak was cooked medium rare, as chef recommended. The entire piece of meat was covered in a crusty black coating and the inside was pink and juicy without being bloody. A layer of fat had partially melted and moistened the steak so that my knife floated effortlessly through it. I ate the entire thing alone, with no sides, sauces and without a sound, apart from the odd steak appreciation noise. I have found my last supper, my desert island dish, I’m good go, just please don’t leave me hanging without a bottle of malbec, it’s too good!

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