Review: Kateh Restaurant

Mimi ON May 26, 2011 AT 4:00 pm

Food at Kateh

Food at Kateh

by John Gregory-Smith

I really love Persian food and I was thrilled to hear about the opening of Kateh in Little Venice, which is one of my favourite parts of London. The restaurant was packed with dinners on a Tuesday night tucking into Kateh’s delicious modern-take on traditional Persian cuisine.

To begin with we had three wonderful starters Kashke Bademajan (£4) – beautifully tender grilled baby aubergines, covered in a lovely tart yogurt, sweet crispy fried onions and a fragrant dried mint oil; Borani Spinach (£3.50) – a perfect blend of unbelievably creamy yogurt and pan fried spinach, packed full of garlic and perfumed with a scattering of rose pettles. This was Persian cuisine at it’s very best. Lastly we had Koofteh Berenji (£5.50) – tender beef meatballs, doused in a lovely rich gravy, textured with split peas, and filled with a soft, savoury, plum that was the best surprise you could ask for.



For our main courses we were recommended Ghormeh Sabzi (£10), which was a veal and kidney bean stew cooked in a rich herb sauce. The meat was perfectly cooked and the sauce, which was really thick, was packed with subtle flavours from the herbs and the soft bitter taste of dried lime. It was excellent. We also had the chargrilled loin of tuna with herb rice and Seville orange (£14.50), which had the most amazing charred BBQ flavour from the grill and perfect tart Persian rice.

Persian deserts are not my favourite as I find them oppressively sweet, but, Kateh’s take on them was excellent and the saffron ice cream was superb. Soft sunshine yellow ice cream, with a gentle earthy saffron flavour, flecked with crunchy green pistachios and the wafting the smell of evocative rosewater. It was a beautifully executed dessert.

Kateh was a fantastic restaurant. My only complaint was not having a lamb grill. I guess I will just have to go back and try one with lots more of the delicious borani spinach!

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