A/W Trends: Feast in the East

Mimi ON May 05, 2009 AT 4:07 pm

Ashish Autumn/Winter 09 runway

Ashish Autumn/Winter 09 runway

By Natalie Hammond

Designers travelled far and wide as they embraced multi-cultural influences from the East. Ashish, whose defined arched brows and Geisha girl lips transformed models into walking ragdolls, and in keeping with their habit to never play the safe card, violet, aquamarine and coral gave the look a much-needed face-lift. The red pout of a Geisha’s lips represent power, the secret life of someone who has to be portrayed as someone who is in complete control of herself, even if it’s quite the opposite. What an effective simile to our fragile social climate when, in true British style, turbulent waters are disguised effortlessly.

Betty Jackson followed suit with heavily kohled lids and rouge mouths, albeit a gentler translation of Eastern glamour. Erdem stayed further West as high top-knots and porcelain skin bought about an air of fragility as models who resembled Russian dolls wore a painted tear on one cheek. A/W is usually more predictable as designers shun colour in favour of smoky eyes and a gothic accent, but 2009 was always going to bend the rules.

Betty Jackson Autumn/Winter 09 Runway

Betty Jackson Autumn/Winter 09 Runway

Colour has made its comeback with Osman Yousefzada and Luella championing the happy mood of makeup. Hot pink, purples and acid tones saw the most vivacious look of any previous season, and bold and brave is the only way to wear it. The news reads only misery and your bank account is screaming red, so fashion has taken charge in painting a smile on your face. Embrace the brightest shades and let your make-up speak some vigour. Wear your lips blood red and your skin lily-white and watch the temperature soar.

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