Beauty, Underlined: The New Eyeliner Trend

Jourdana ON Jan 18, 2013 AT 7:59 am

It comes as quite a relief, at least for those of us with a less than steady hand, that the latest beauty trend for eyes requires altogether less precision, artistry and skill.

The dramatic eyeliner flick that, over the last few seasons, has seen various incarnations from feline sexiness and rock’n'roll grunge to a strong, graphic shape, has for spring summer 2013 repositioned itself. To the bottom lash line.

Marios Schwab | Marchesa SS13

It’s an area that, aside from a hydrating eye cream or creamy concealer, tends to be left well alone, because even the faintest smudge of kohl here can create the dark shadows that we spend a lifetime attempting to erase. This season however, moves were made into the unchartered territory.

Stella McCartney | Fendi SS13

At Marios Schwab, make up artist Val Garland painted a strong urban slash of carbon shadow beneath the eye, tapering out toward the temple, whilst at Marchesa, a more delicate black liquid liner ran the length of the lower lash line, from the inner corner where it was tempered by a shot of gold leaf, to the outer edge of the eye where it stopped abruptly. Thanks to Peter Philips, eye make up was shunned altogether at Fendi, replaced instead with colour-block neoprene appliques (cut from a swimsuit) underlined the eye. “Neoprene’s precise,” explained Philips, “it doesn’t feather-out like make up tends to do, it attaches easily to the skin and doesn’t absorb the glue.”

If that’s all a little too ‘done’ for a typical day take your cue from Stella McCartney and Christopher Kane instead. At both shows, the models’ upper lashline and eyelashes were left bare whilst kohl (saturated aqua shades for McCartney and grungy dark tones at Kane)  was smudged along the lower lash and waterline, offering up a surprising and stunning flash of colour.

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