LFW Backstage: Antonio Berardi SS12

Mimi ON Sep 19, 2011 AT 3:00 pm

Antonio Berardi SS12

Antonio Berardi SS12

At the Antonio Berardi Spring/Summer 2012 runway show, models were dressed in soft, flowy, pastel fabrics that were embellished with metallic embroidery and beading. It was this mix of soft and hard that lead hairstylist, Anthony Turner, used as inspiration for the models’ hair.

“We wanted to mix something light and something tough, so you see strength within” says Turner of the models’ slicked-back-yet-soft dos. Turner started off by running John Frieda Luxurious Volume Thickening Mousse through each model’s hair, followed by a quick blow dry. Using a large-toothed comb for “a little bit of a 50s-inspired look,” Turner brushed John Frieda Serum through the sides and front of the hair to create that masculine, slicked-back look. He finished the look by briefly wrapping the hair that remained down in the back around a curling iron to create soft, loose waves. Turner says that although the look in front is strong and severe, the pretty waves in back help “her feel a little romance, like she’s still touchable,” and allow femininity to still shine through.

Antonio Berardi SS12 hair

Antonio Berardi SS12 hair

Turner also says that although “you wouldn’t want to go all the way with this look because it is purely for inspiration,” you can still “take certain elements from the look and try to recreate it yourself at home.” Loose waves always look lovely and you can brush the hair away from the face to create a softer version of the slicked-back look.

Lead makeup artist Val Garland and the M.A.C. Pro team created the gorgeous makeup looks for the show.

“I wanted the girls to feel very empowered and just very beautiful,” says Garland, “so it’s all about very reflective skin, and lots of high shine on the temples and the cheekbones.” To achieve this look, Garland applied M.A.C. Cream Colour Base in Shell to highlight the face, and for the lips, Garland created what she called a “3D car-paint red mouth” on some of the models. She blended a blue-red shade with a coral-red shade to create the perfect red colour, and cranked it up a notch to create “a high-vinyl lip color” by adding M.A.C. Clear Lipglass. This red was also seen on the nails, which were perfectly painted by Sophy Robson for Leighton Denny.

Sophy Robson for Leighton Denny doing nails at Antonio Berardi SS12

Sophy Robson for Leighton Denny doing nails at Antonio Berardi SS12

On other models, Garland did an “Oyster lip,” which is “a pale, mauvy beige.” While the red lip served as the punch of colour needed to mimic the collection’s harder side, the natural lip reflected the soft femininity that was still present in the clothes.

Garland wanted to keep the eyes “really clean” so mascara was axed in favour of highlighter, which was brushed across the lids, followed by “a little bit of oil just in the middle of the eye so we get a nice reflection on the eyes as well.”

Val Garland's essentials for the lip look

Val Garland's essentials for the lip look

Garland says that this look can easily be recreated for everyday because “it’s simply a beige lip with gloss or a red lip with gloss.” Stick with the natural lip during the day and switch over to the glossy red for an appropriate nighttime look. For the “Oyster lip” look try M.A.C.’s Lipstick in Lush Amber, and for the “3D car-paint red” custom colour, combine the coral hue of M.A.C. Pigment in Neo-Orange with the blue-red shade of Viva Glam I Lipstick. Finish off with the Clear Lipglass to take your look to another level.

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