PoP: By Kilian Rose Oud

Mimi ON Jun 18, 2010 AT 10:47 am

Katie Puckrik

Katie Puckrik: Photographer Martin Shaw

By Katie Puckrik

I just performed a By Kilian Rose Oud whore’s bath at my local perfume emporium. Yes, now it can be told: Rose Oud and me, it’s love. But a “stolen spritzes” kind of love, because who has $400 to lay down for a bottle, even if it is a bottle full of joy? The real purpose for my last four perfume shop visits has been to load up on Rose Oud samples, with accompanying mid-shop WBs each time.

Rose Oud is pretty simple and linear: rose, oud, saffron, cardamom. Add “whiskers on kittens”, and these are a few of my favorite things. I can’t get enough of it.

It’s a rich, fruity, almost winey rose, and plus, I love rose and saffron together. And the oud is nice and cuddly, less present than in Pure Oud, more like the grounding, subtly enveloping oud of Amouage Epic Man. (But without the odd savoriness of Epic Man that makes me feel overstuffed when I wear it.)

Rose Oud is kind of sweet without the obvious sweetness of, say, By Kilian Back to Black I can’t figure out what’s making it sweet-ish. And I’m comparing it now to Amouage Lyric for Women, another saffron rose. Lyric is more complex, what with the incense and ylang-ylang. It’s sharper and nuttier than Rose Oud.

By Kilian Rose Oud

By Kilian Rose Oud

Rose Oud has what I like in L’Artisan Parfumeur Safran Troublant, that saffron/rose “am I smelling this, eating this or wearing this?”. But Rose Oud is richer, with the edges burred. Like ST, it’s not obviously rose. Everything’s counterbalanced. And while it’s dense and rich, it’s not smothering and heavy, the way Montale White Aoud (my current solid in the rose-saffron-oud dept) can be.

(Incidentally, I’m also kind of getting down with Juliette Has a Gun Midnight Oud, too, a woodier, less-plush rose and oud. It’s more masculine than Rose Oud.)

I’m just going to live off my cadged samples for a while until I figure out if Rose Oud and I have a future. But what if we are perfect for each other? What am I supposed to do about that with its silly-billy price? Just keep skulking back to the perfume shop every three days for more freebies?

Sigh. Off to dab on more of my Rose Oud sample.

For more of Katie’s fragrance rants and rambles, visit her blog, www.katiepuckriksmells.com

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