Puckrik on Perfume

Katie Puckrik ON Mar 26, 2010 AT 3:45 pm

Katie Puckrik: Photographer Martin Shaw

By Katie Puckrik

Once again Katie Puckrik deals with a very unique reader request. This week it’s from Animnafets, who wants to smell like chinese air pollution!


I’m looking for a fragrance that embodies China. I spent a lot of my childhood in China and whenever I smell industrial smoke or cigarette smoke it’s very nostalgic (and lung cancer-inducing). So is the incense they burn everywhere in China, but I have no idea what it is!

So, I’m looking for a tobacco-y smoky incense-y scent with maybe some tea or herbal notes. Nothing TOO strong though, seeing as how the weather’s getting hot. Suggestions?

Animnafets, I have the same kind of toxic nostalgia for the low-grade diesel fumes I remember from my tween years in Moscow. Lucky for us we live in an age where every olfactory nuance can be recreated in a bottle, from the bumper 2006 narcissus harvest in L’Artisan Parfumeur Fleur de Narcisse, to a rip-snortin’ case of gastric distress in Liquid Ass (yes, a real fragrance, but not one you’d actually use. On purpose).

But even though the notes you crave may be extreme, you still gotta wear this shizz, so I’m excited to recommend L’Artisan Parfumeur Dzongkha. Inspired by the Himalayas, perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour worked spicy tea and smoky incense into a transparent, arid iris. Dzongkha would be no problem to carry off in hot weather.

Annick Goutal Encens Flamboyant

Recklessly leaving my gas mask behind in the fallout shelter, I’ve ventured further into the biohazard genre of fragrances to retrieve these additional beautiful pollutants:

Annick Goutal Encens Flamboyant: ashy, piney frankincense.

État Libre d’Orange Jasmin et Cigarettes: attractively ashy jasmine. (This smells like the jasmine version of L’Artisan

Parfumeur Vanilia, an ashtray vanilla with the same creamy/dusty hue.)

biehl parfumkunstwerke mb03: a summer-weight Comme des Garçons Avignon — crisp, sheer incense.

L’Artisan Parfumeur Tea for Two: smoky, spicy chai.

Etro Palais Jamais: smoky vetiver and Earl Gray tea.

Olivier Durbano Black Tourmaline: peaty truck exhaust and incense.

Hermès Kelly Calèche: the intersection between tea, leather and rose.

Le Labo Patchouli 24: eye-stinging bonfire smoke and a hint of ‘nilla.

Good luck recreating your exotically-charred youth!

For more of Katie’s fragrance rants and rambles, visit KatiePuckrikSmells at: www.katiepuckriksmells.com

Missed Katie’s last post? If so then click here…

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