Goodbye New York…

BATD ON Feb 20, 2009 AT 6:19 pm

On the runway at Vera Wang

On the runway at Vera Wang

As we wave goodbye to a show stopping New York and head to London for our next fashion fix, we give you a run down of what happened on the runway yesterday…

Vera Wang
Leave it to Vera Wang to pull something so simple out of thin air and make it glamorous. Wang has always relished the juxtaposition of being artsy and pretty, but last night in the intimate quarters of her new boutique in Soho, pretty took a backseat. This fall season, expect a primarily black palette for Vera’s dresses, trousers, coats, and even corset belts. New York’s most romantic designer scrapped the glittering details on this much shorter runway, and gravitated toward fabrics like black moiré organza, which she used for coats and off the shoulder dresses. Skinny stretch trousers added severity and somberness to feminine girly tops (albeit with a lot less ruffles this time) and front pleated skirts looked more business than bombshell. The only variations from her understated collection were tank dresses in grey silk with a handful of pillar box red sequins, along with muted colours like slate paired with a purple brocade. Even if her new austere look isn’t an instant sell-out, we suspect more priceless evening gowns that every celebrity fawns over (and every young girl would die to wear) are still in the works.

On the runway at Zac Posen

On the runway at Zac Posen

Zac Posen
Zac Posen isn’t yet a household name, but the astonishing creations he constructs are getting him well on the way. His red-carpet successes, specifically the breathtaking black hourglass gown Kate Winslet donned at the BAFTA’s, project attainable glamour at just the right moments. At his fall fashion show last night, Posen struck the right chord with one-of-a-kind dress designs—about 140 of them. He employed a piano troupe, the 5 Browns, to play on five pianos strategically placed on the runway. Models Vlada, Sigrid, and Toni stepped out in forties-inspired getups that mirrored Victorian style. Alicia Keys and Claire Danes, both longtime fans of Posen, imitated the look in simple silk shifts. This time around, Posen is all about volume: Joan Crawford shoulders, puff sleeves, ruffles on neck and hemlines, and trails of fabric behind the evening gowns. He does so in eye-catching colours like metallic on violet and gold, florals, and electric blues and mango. His critics say Posen is too over the top, but pieces like a grey wool day jumper and a belted red satin robe round out the look. (We’re positive he’s hit the right note with such an elegant line.)

Watch the runway show here

Calvin Klein runway show

Calvin Klein runway show

Calvin Klein

We all know men are softies at heart, but Calvin Klein took the idea literally. (Not that we don’t appreciate it!) A far cry from last season, the new fall line is tailored to the fashionably practical. Francisco Costa painstakingly staged asymmetrical necklines and hems with incredibly classic black coats, sleeveless vests, and daring jackets with huge lapels. This meticulous-but-messy style is one the fashion scene isn’t accustomed to, but Calvin Klein makes the look anything but haphazard. The stark contrast of wool on lace, and the unexpected bursts of colour made us do a double take, and then look again to make sure we weren’t imagining things. Costa’s playful compilations of fabric produced carefully executed skirt and pantsuits made from felted wool, a striking one-shoulder dress, and a knee-baring velvet yellow frock. (When this designer uses colour, you know he means business.) The combination of definition and anti-masculinity proved to be a tough feat, especially with such muted hues and harsh cuts, but Calvin Klein designs are never predictable, and always irresistible; it’s why we love them.

Watch the runway show here…

Watch catwalk footage here.

Related Posts Plugin for WordPress, Blogger...

Comments are closed.