Paris Fashion Week

Mimi ON Oct 01, 2009 AT 5:40 pm

Limi Feu S/S 2010

Limi Feu S/S 2010

It’s finally here! Known for the very best couture and avant-garde designers Paris Fashion Week has a lot to live up to this year, after New York, London and Milan blew everyone away.

Limi Feu
Limi Yamamoto
, daughter of the famous Japanese designer, Yohji Yamamoto, who’s also showing this week, presented her avant-garde collection yesterday with much applause.  The theme was black, white and oversized, with just a hint of origami. Clean white shirts were rolled up, squared, and cut like a cape with drop-crotch trousers and fitted waistcoats. Shoes were very flat, echoing the trend for heels next season.

With exaggerated silhouettes, Limi’s clothes were strong and filled with street attitude, which was reflected in the hair and accessories of her models, with spiked, punk bracelets around their wrists and in their hair. Limi is a very individualistic designer and certainly has no worries of what anyone else thinks of her. That’s most evident in her choice of models that included Argentinean dancer, Carlos Kloester, in his 70’s and French actor Eric Cormet, 52.

Gareth Pugh

Gareth Pugh

Gareth Pugh
The young British designer, known for his extreme, super-Goth collections, has changed his tone, literally, to grey and every shade of it. As Pugh says, it’s “the same sort of feeing, but with a whole different aesthetic.” Mixing womenswear and menswear in his show, it was hard to differentiate the models as they stormed down the runway, with lilac hair and ashen faces, to a remix that echoed Requiem for a Dream.

Pugh’s experiment with fabric was a bit obsessive with feather-light tops, some of them boldly exposing the models’ bare breasts and dresses and pants that were micro-pleated and slashed. Everything was going in a whole new direction, but surprisingly well put together and overall a nice change from the same thing we’ve been seeing the past few seasons. The looks were much less structured, with more flowing movement.

The men’s’ clothing were a bit more restricting than the women’s with tight corsets and tailored trousers and jackets. The girl’s dresses were knitted and skin-tight, and slashed to pieces. Pugh had an impressive front row, with singer Rihanna, front man for REM, Michael Stipe, and lead actor Adrian Grenier from Entourage.

Anne Valérie Hash

Anne Valérie Hash

Anne Valérie Hash
Converse on the runway! It’s definitely a departure from the norm, but French designer Anne Valérie Hash explained that her collection had become too “madame” and she wanted to make it cooler. And we’ll give it to her, those basketball trainers definitely gave it a younger feel.

Hash opened the show with structured tailoring, a tuxedo-bib shirt and short-cropped jackets. Her colour palette was very minimal and soft staying mostly in white, beige, pink, then dipping into black near the end.  She showed us low-slung pants, cute onsies, and ankle-length dresses made from metallic cottons. Blouses were made from feather-light material and cut very generously for the next season.

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