McQueen Bar and Restaurant

Mimi ON Mar 25, 2011 AT 9:54 am

McQueen Bar and Restaurant

McQueen Bar and Restaurant

by John Gregory-Smith

McQueen on Tabernacle Street is one of those restaurant/bar/clubs where you can go for the entire evening, just moving from one designer clad room to another, depending on where your mood takes you.  The restaurant, adored with pictures of the iconic movie star Steve McQueen, has just appointed Anupam Som as the new head chef. Anupam hailed from raw food mecca Saf and his training can be seen at McQueen’s. Vegetable and nut purees delicately graced the plates alongside superbly cooked meat and fish on a menu he described as modern European.

McQueen Bar and Restaurant

McQueen Bar and Restaurant

We were given a taster of several dishes from the new a la carte menu. To start things off we had pan-fried scallops and smoked eel with a celeriac puree (£10) and a wine and herb braised pork terrine with truffle cauliflower (£8).  The terrine was a melt in the mouth cube of porky heaven, which sat proudly on a rich cauliflower puree that was brought to life with a drizzle of tart raspberry sauce. I know that sounds like a nuvo-cuisine nightmare but it worked really well. The raspberry cut through the richness of the pork in a tart swirl of shocking red.

McQueen Bar and Restaurant

McQueen Bar and Restaurant

For our mains we had ham hock risotto, braised cabbage and roasted loin of Devonshire pork (£16 as a main), which was amazing. The pork was perfectly cooked and nestled into a rich oozing risotto that had a slightly hammy taste and perfect bite. The braised cabbage was cooked down to a dark caramelised mass, which added a much needed sour flavour to the rich dish. Next time I will need the full sized version. Finally we had new season lamb rump, jerusalam artichoke puree and raspberry marinated beetroot (14.50 as a main). The lamb was cooked just on the right side of rare and served with a nutty, and perfectly seasoned, artichoke puree. The dish was littered with tiny little pickled onions that added a much needed tartness and all drizzled in a wonderfully rich meaty jus.

The food demonstrated a real attention to detail, which you would expect from someone who had been working with raw ingredients. Everything looked beautiful on the plate and there was always a perfect balance of flavours and textures. I hope that Anupam go from strength to strength in his new kitchen.

55-61 Tabernacle Street,
Shoreditch,
London,
EC2A 4AA

Tel: (020) 7036 9229

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