The Square

Mimi ON Nov 14, 2012 AT 1:36 pm

by John Gregory Smith

The Square had everything you would expect from a fine dining experience. It came with 2 Michelin stars, a spacious dining room in the heart of Mayfair, impeccable food and unbelievable attention to detail. However, what I really enjoyed was the relaxed atmosphere, the mixed crowd that were all thoroughly enjoying themselves, and the delicious, well portioned food.

The Square

As we entered the restaurant we were greeted like old friends and taken over to our table. A glass of a fizz and a little plate of foie gras were served immediately kicking things off in style.

Roast Scallops with Truffle and Cauliflowe

The menu was wonderfully seasonal and beautiful autumnal ingredients were the centrepiece. Starters of Dorset crab lasagne doused in a wonderfully light shellfish and champagne foam and a mighty plate of Isle of Orkney Scallops, fried until golden, served with cepes and a bed of slow braised, caramelised onions were both utterly amazing.

 For my main course I had pan-fried monkfish that was served on a bed of lentils that had been slow braised with pig trotters. I love surf and turf, and this high-end version took things to a new stratosphere. The lentils were so rich and porky and cut through the creamy monkfish beautifully. All the flavours and textures worked so well, and again, it was this attention to detail I loved so much.  We also had a rather sunning plate of grouse that was served with pearl barley, pancetta and sweet Muscat grapes. It was a brilliant dish that made this seasons ingredients really come into their own. The grouse breasts were cooked pink and juicy and sat on the bed of thick pearl barley stew. The grapes lightened up the dish as they burst open with sweet freshness. It was fantastic.

The Square, 6-10 Bruton Street, London, W1J 6PU, 020 7495 7100

3 courses at The Square cost £80

 You can check also check out Phil Howard, owner of The Square, and one of the world’s most acclaimed chefs, in a mini series and podcast, which has been produced in tandem with his debut cookbook The Square: The Cookbook, Volume 1: Savoury.

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