Review: The Redhook

BATD ON Dec 17, 2010 AT 9:30 am

The Redhook restaurant

The Redhook restaurant

By John Gregory-Smith

The Redhook on Turnmill Street, with its low lighting, wooden floors, exposed brick walls and dark chesterfield sofas, is one of the best steak restaurants I have been to in ages. The menu was like a New York style ‘surf and turf’ restaurant with a slight Asian twist. Steamed lobster with star anise, coriander seeds and orange sat very nicely alongside an honest lobster thermidor and New York Striploin Steak.

We started off with a couple of rock oysters served with a classic red wine and shallot dipping sauce. Now I am not a huge oyster fan. Foodies turn away please – they look like a sneeze and taste like old sea water. However I will try anything once and even twice if they are sold well and the staff sold the snotty little things amazingly. Needless to say they were delicious. The tart dressing made the salty specimens slip down a treat. Infact they were so good that I went back for seconds.

Food at The Redhook

Food at The Redhook

For my starter I had scallops with chorizo. They were big meaty things that were dyed sunshine yellow from the chorizo and tasted delicious. It’s one of my favourite flavour combinations. However the winner was my mate’s lobster thermidor. The half lobster was perfectly cooked and covered in a delicious rich sauce made from cream, parmesan, tarragon and cognac. It was one of those wonderful food experiences where we got truly involved returning a licked-clean plate and an empty carcass.

We both chose the rib eye steaks for our main course, which came with a velvety smooth béarnaise sauce that had just the right amount of tartness. The meat was extremely good quality, perfectly cooked and seasoned beautifully. I loved it. We also had a side dish of lentils and bacon. Now this is the kind of thing most people would cook and it would taste completely bland or just of salt. Our lentils where full of flavour with lovely bits of smoked bacon running through them. I would go back to eat these on their own anytime.

Like any good American joint, the desserts were an integral part of the meal and with the likes of cheesecake, chocolate torte and knickerbocker glory it was worth saving space. Sadly we could not eat all of them so we went for the baked New York blueberry cheesecake and a small perfectly round chocolate torte, which was like a slightly melted chocolate bar. Both were fantastic and left us completely stuffed.

The Redhook have just introduced a 3 course Christmas menu for £32.

www.redhooklondon.com

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