Roussillon, Pimlico

Mimi ON Nov 29, 2011 AT 1:25 pm



by John Gregory-Smith

Roussillon is a lovely little French restaurant tucked away in Pimlico. Head chef Shane Hughes recently took over the kitchen having run Michelin starred Ynyshir Hall in Wales for the last three years. The inside was leaning toward fine dining – an immaculate dining room, small tables, lots of space, low lighting and extremely attentive staff – infact this is the kind of place I visit less and less as I find the whole thing predictable. However, Shane and his team reminded me how wrong that thought was. The food was perfectly executed, beautifully prepared and anything but predictable.

To start off I had the pig and langoustine, which was disks of boiled pigs head, served warm, with charred langoustine tails, artichokes, crisp baby carrots and a tart dressing of cherry vinegar and delicate green pumpkin seed oil. It looked like art, stunning, but nothing is too pretty to eat and it was superb, bursting with different flavours and textures. Nothing was overpowering and the fruity dressing brought everything together. We also had the Fois Gras terrine, which was served with a madly pink and beautifully light beetroot mouse that freshened up French delicacy perfectly.

Food at Roussillon

Food at Roussillon

I continued my surf and turf themed dinner with the beef and lobster. This was served as a single piece of spiced beef shin ravioli, on a bed of spinach, with sweet pink lobster tail on the side and drizzle of velvety smooth fennel and parsnip cream and truffle emulsion. Wow! It was incredible. The ravioli was literally bulging with the stuffing and the light, slightly tart sauce cut through the richness of the meat and balanced the immaculate dish perfectly.

My very lucky dining companion had the pan-seared turbot with poached clams, fresh linguini, coriander and rich thai style nage. The meaty piece of fish was cooked beautifully and perfect with the salty clams and intense cooking liquor. The noodles acted as the ideal vehicle to carry all the remaining juices so not a drop of the fantastic flavour was wasted.

For desserts we went for the treacle tart and chocolate fondant, which were both delicious. However, for me, the highlight was the pale green, fragrant bay leaf ice cream, served with the fondant.

The meal was a steal at £65 per head for 3 courses. Get in their quick for a chance to see what a Shane can do before he gets the recognition he deserves and prices are adjusted!

Roussillon 16 St Barnabas Street, London SW1 W 8PE, Tel: 0207 730 5550.

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